by Andrew Pierce
On August 2 it was mostly cloudy in southeastern Vanua Levu, so I set up my scope near the resort bar and put on an impromptu star party. Just before dinner the southern cross came out and most of the guests came out to see it. After dinner I aimed at the Moon and Mars, which were generally behind clouds but visible. Mars is much brighter looking through one atmosphere rather than two as we see it here at 37 degrees north.
The biggest reaction was from the staff, virtually all of whom came by to take a look. These folks were mostly Fijians from the nearby village of Nukubalavu. One of the first observers exclaimed "I must tell the village about this" and then made sure his buddy would confirm what he saw. Many of the Fijians spontaneously commented that the moon was made of rock. We were looking at cratered areas and Schroters Valley, which bear some resemblance to the primarily volcanic features of Fiji. I wondered if they were having a "Galileo moment" when the telescope turned the moon from an immaculate celestial sphere to a physical body with features that are familiar from their corrolaries on earth. For the rest of the trip the staff always filled my kava cup to the brim -- what the locals call "high tide."
Later that night I took a good long look at Mars. Seeing was good and the Martian dust storm seemed improved, but I saw nothing remarkable -- the usual polar cap and some dark markings which I have yet to check against Mars Previewer for positive ID.
On 8-3 a brief clearing around 7:00 gave me a shot at Eta Carina. I think I saw it and two nearby clusters, but the nebula was unspectacular due to the rising nearly full moon. This area of Carina is packed with bright Milky Way stuff that was obvious in the 30 mm finder. Its sort of like Sagittarius, in that you have to know your way around to know what you've got. It wasn't clear long enough to fully get one's bearings. I'm reasonably sure I saw Eta Car and NGC 3293 and 3532. One of the clusters consisted of many bright stars and the other was poorer and more compact but still impressive.
On 8-5, my last day, I woke just before dawn to clear skies. Orion and all of Canis Major were striking, but the highlight was Jupiter and Venus looking about 2 degrees apart. I think this was the day before their closest approach, but Fiji time is so far off what we read in local publications that I might be wrong. (Later that same day I arrived in northern California several hours before my plane left Fiji.) Orion had an unusual fairy light quality against the deep blue sky. I said goodbye to Canopus and went back to bed.
I can't recommend the Jean Michel Cousteau resort as an astro sight because of the weather and the profusion of tall palm tees, although I strongly recommend it on all other grounds. But I sure am glad I brought my scope and binos. If you ever get a chance to see the LMC, SMC or 47 Tuc, you should jump on it.